Denim is one of the most iconic and widespread fabrics in the world. It is a complex and special fabric, with a rich historical and cultural heritage: it originated as workwear and later entered the world of fashion.
The History
In almost 150 years, denim has transcended social classes, continents, and generations, transforming from work overalls into a universal symbol of style, becoming in a few decades the most versatile fabric in history.
Origins - 1600s
The name "denim" likely derives from Nîmes, a French city, through the expression "serge de Nîmes": a sturdy cotton fabric produced there in the 17th century. Concurrently, in Genoa, a similar fabric called "jean" (from the French Gênes, Genoa) was produced, used for the trousers of Ligurian sailors.
Modern Jeans - 1800s
The real revolution arrived in 1873, when the merchant Levi Strauss and the Latvian tailor Jacob Davis patented trousers reinforced with copper rivets. Born as workwear for Californian miners and laborers, they were practical, resistant, and almost indestructible.
From Hard Work to Icon - 1930s/1970s
Between the 1930s and 1940s, jeans began to spread beyond the working classes thanks to Western films. In the 1950s, they became a symbol of youth rebellion, worn by icons like James Dean and Marlon Brando. In the 1960s and 1970s, they were adopted by the hippie movement and became a worldwide symbol of freedom.
Fashion - 1970s/1990s
In the 1970s and 1980s, major designers (Calvin Klein, Versace, Giorgio Armani) brought denim into high fashion, creating the concept of designer jeans. The fabric entered runways and the most exclusive wardrobes.
Japanese Denim
In the 1960s and 1970s, large American denim manufacturers (like Levi Strauss & Co.) began to decommission old traditional looms in favor of faster and more efficient industrial machines, designed to increase production and reduce imperfections.
The decommissioned looms were purchased in Japan, where they were gradually rediscovered and valued.
From that moment on, Japan increasingly refined its denim production on these historic machines, transforming them into a standard of artisanal excellence. This is how the famous selvedge Japanese denim was born, now considered an iconic fabric and commonly called selvedge.
Here are the main characteristics of Japanese denim:
- Traditional Looms
Much Japanese denim is produced on old shuttle looms: this creates the famous slub effect (yarn irregularities) and a greater perceived tactile density.
The looms have a limited width, so Japanese denim has a height of 80 cm. - Selvedge Denim
It is almost always selvedge or "self-edged":
• finished selvedge (visible when turning up the garment
• no fraying
• a symbol of quality - High Weight
Thicker and more irregular yarns are used, which increase weight and texture.
In Japanese denim, typical weights are:
• 250 gr →standard/“premium”
• 340 gr →heavy
*weights are calculated per linear meter, considering a fabric 80 cm wide - Natural Dyeing
Natural indigo or traditional processes are often used:
• deeper color
• more beautiful and contrasted fading
How to Choose It
Let's look together, step by step, at how to choose the best fabric for your project!
- Weight
The first parameter to check is weight!
• LIGHTWEIGHT: 180 – 300 g/linear meter
→ shirts, summer jeans
• MEDIUM: 400 – 550 g/linear meter
→ standard weight: trousers, jackets
• HEAVYWEIGHT: ≥ 550 g/linear meter
→ workwear or conceptual avant-garde
*The data are indicative and refer to a hypothetical fabric 140 cm wide - Composition
Composition is also very important: it determines the fabric's behavior.
• 100% COTTON
→ more authentic and durable
• COTTON+ELASTANE (1-3%)
→ more comfort
→ slim fit - Weave
Denim is a twill (diagonal weave) and there are 3 main variations:
• RIGHT-HAND-TWILL:
The most classic with a diagonal from bottom left to top right
→ more compact structure
→ tends to become rigid and defined
→ develops sharper fades
• LEFT-HAND-TWILL:
Opposite diagonal
→ slightly "open" structure
→ becomes softer over time
→ more "faded" fades
• BROKEN TWILL:
Alternating zig-zag diagonal
→ no continuous direction
→ prevents leg twisting
→ more uniform appearance over time - Raw or Washed?
Raw denim is unwashed and untreated; it is also called "dry denim."
Many denim enthusiasts prefer it.
• RAW DENIM
→ stiff at first
→ develops personalized fades
• WASHED DENIM
→ immediately soft
→ immediate comfort
Denim FAQs
- Do all denim garments fade?
Yes.
In general, all indigo-dyed denim garments fade after washing. Since the yarns are only immersed in indigo for a short time during dyeing, the color does not completely penetrate to the center of the yarn. Consequently, with washing or rubbing, the fabric gradually fades and the white core of the yarn emerges. - Why is denim indigo blue?
In the 18th century, blue was the color of the working class; since denim was intended for workwear, it was dyed blue. Furthermore, at the time, natural indigo was readily available! - Is all denim 100% cotton?
No!
Only traditional denim is 100% cotton. After the 1960s, manufacturers began to make denim with blended fibers. At Tosca, we only choose cotton denim! - How to wash denim?
True denim connoisseurs prefer never to wash this fabric, to preserve its original color and encourage the formation of natural fades created by wear. In general, it is advisable to avoid overly frequent washing and pay attention to the methods: it is best not to use hot water or a dryer.
It is recommended to turn the garment inside out and wash it cold or on a delicate cycle, to maintain the quality and appearance of the fabric for longer and avoid spinning.
TIP:
For unwashed (raw) denim, it is common practice to soak it overnight in cold water with a little vinegar, with the aim of helping to fix the color
